Bistros in Paris are a lot more understated than the very stylish PM 24. But this is not all front – it delivers. The food is good if you enjoy bistro food, which can be a bit too hearty for some palettes.
This is a Philippe Mouchel’s creation with a little help from his friends (George Columbaris and co) in this large warehouse style cavernous space in Melbourne. The kitchens and rotisseries are in full view of the diners, which provides a warm feel to what could have been a big cold place. By no means an intimate bistro – this very large establishment fills up most nights. Despite that service flows giving it that bistro pace.
While the menu is extensive, with a number of classics, you would come here for what they do best – the Rotisserie.
The Rotisserie dates back to medieval times and is a style of roasting where meat is skewered on a spit. The rotisserie cooks the meat evenly in its own juices and allows easy access for continuous basting. There are different rotisserie options depending on the day of the week but there are also the favourites that are provided all week like the Organic Milawa Chicken and the Corn Fed Duck which are very popular. Not surprisingly given how tender and succulent the meat is when it arrives and uncluttered by excessive flavours done simply usually with herbs, lemon and seasoning, and so you can really savour the flavours of the meat. This is slow cooking at its best.
Some great bistro style treatments for vegetables – the peas and other seasonal options work well with roasted meats.
The wine lists and wine waiter appear quickly at your table with all the knowledge you could need to make a choice. Great French wines but for those less adventurous some ‘new world’ options.
It will be interesting to see if PM 24 survives in a city that appears to be moving more towards the lighter/lightly cooked styles of food
24 Russell Street